Scotland 2024--Introduction

Our trip to Scotland started over two years ago. The impetus for this adventure was driven by the Clan MacDougall International Gathering 2024 scheduled at Dunollie Castle, Oban, Scotland in July/ and August of this year. Going to Scotland for this event likely would not have happened unless I hadn't taken an Ancestry.com DNA test a few years ago.

My family genealogy research earnestly started in the early 2000s. It began with entering my family information into Family Tree software (back then, this was not an online database, but a software program). I used information in a booklet compiled by a distant cousin on my mother’s Bryan (paternal) side of the family.

My mother’s maternal grandmother was a MacDougall. My early research helped me connect to my MacDougall ancestor, Duncan MacDougall. Using early genealogy internet resources on various websites, such as rootsweb.com, I found he emigrated to North Carolina in 1775, having been born in Argyllshire, Scotland in 1740. At that time, I could not find the elusive connection to my MacDougall line beyond Duncan.

Then, after taking my DNA test, an explosion of information occurred. As more and more information populated, based on my DNA and research, I was able to connect Duncan to his ancestors. Also, thanks to information on the website for Clan MacDougall Society of North America, I found that I descend from the 1st Chief of the clan and Somerled, King of the Isles (Hebrides) and Regent of Argyll.

My MacDougall line was only a part of my DNA story. The test revealed that I am 43% Scottish, 25% English & Northern European, 14% Welsh, 8% Irish, 6% Dane and Swede, 2% Germanic Europe, and 1% Norwegian.

I was also able to connect my family to many other notable clans of Scotland: Campbell, Stewart, Lindsay, McClusky, McConnachie, McBride, Frazier, McAlpin, and others, as well as septs of clans.

Originally, I had hoped that all three of my sons would make the trip, but as the date approached, that did not happen. My oldest son had already traveled to Scotland and declined, and my middle son started a new job and could not take two weeks off to make the trip.

So, over several months, Daniel (my youngest son) and I planned our airline details, itinerary, lodging, car rental, etc. We decided early that we wanted to “do our thing” rather than be at the mercy of a tour group. Both methods have their advantages but taking our time and rolling with the flow seemed best for us.

It was a challenge trying to squeeze seeing as much as possible into two weeks and remain upright and sane. Because July/August is peak travel time to Scotland, we needed to make and finalize many of our plans months in advance.

We decided to arrive in Glasgow, spend the night, and drive to Oban, where we would attend the gathering and see three of the Inner Hebrides via ferry tour. Next, we would drive to Skye, then on to Inverness, and finally to Edinburgh, spending various lengths of time at each destination. To return we would take the train back to Glasgow and fly home.

Also, as part of my planning, I created a notebook containing copies of travel documents (driver’s license, passport, insurance cards, credit cards, etc.) I also put in our lodging, flight, and car rental information, as well as personal data (health information, next of kin, emergency contacts, medication list, etc.). Another section of the booklet was dedicated to our planned itinerary. It contained a packing list as well. Then I took the pages to Staples and had them put into a sturdy paper folder, that I cut in half to use as front and back of the binder. I added section tabs and blank pages for notes, then had the contents spiral bound. It was inexpensive, thin, and used throughout the trip.

Finally, the long-awaited day arrived. Dan’s wife drove us to Indianapolis Airport, and we flew to JFK, with a connection via Amsterdam, then Glasgow. After many hours of flying time, we had arrived.

We cleared customs, exchanged our U.S. dollars for UK Scottish pounds, then grabbed a taxi and headed to the car rental agency. Interestingly, our taxi driver, a native Scot, had been married in Miami and returned to celebrate his 35th anniversary. His friendliness and welcoming attitude set the tone for our visit.

Our initial plan was to do a short walking tour of Glasgow, grab some dinner, then go to our Air BNB. However, we were exhausted. We had to wait for our car rental, which was not ready due to an internal communication issue. The staff at Budge Car Rental in Glasgow were great and corrected their error quickly with Glaswegian hospitality and efficiency.

After driving away and while waiting for check-in time at the BNB, we found a local bistro near the apartment and had a late lunch. (BTW, Daniel did great the entire trip driving on the wrong side of the road!) At the bistro, he enjoyed a full Scottish breakfast, and I had a sandwich. We both had our first taste of the national soft drink of Scotland—IRN-BRU™.\

The apartment in Glasgow was a one-bedroom, with a sofa bed in the “sitting room”. FYI, there is a bit of a learning curve in the UK related to energy use. The bathrooms have on-demand hot-water heaters which must be activated ahead of time if you want hot water. Also, the BNB and hotels did not have washcloths as part of the linen service, so if you are a washcloth-using person, pack a couple for your trip!

I do use washcloths and was thankful I packed some ScrubEZZ™ Bath Cloths that I ordered from QVC. These handy cloths are dry and are activated by wetting them with water. They do not require rinsing and, thus are great for bed baths and freshening up on the go. I used them for washcloths, and I am sure they would be great for families traveling with young children.

Scotland 2024--Day 2

We began our day by having breakfast at the same bistro where we’d eaten the previous evening. Then, we were on our way to Oban. Words cannot express the beauty of the countryside in Scotland. Even the many photographs we took do not do this magnificent country justice.

As we wound our way north out of Glasgow toward Oban, we came across a large archway set a bit off the road with a parking area on the western shore of Loch (Scottish word for “lake”) Lomond. We were not sure what it was, but we pulled over, nevertheless. To the right of the archway and its large iron gate, was a smaller gate leading to a pathway. Due to the muddy conditions, we did not explore further but are still in the dark about what this archway signifies. Was it perhaps an old estate? My research of images near the loch has come up empty, so if anyone reading this knows the significance of this archway, please IM me or send me a message on my website.

Mysterious Arch	Small gate beside arch

Loch Lomond is a large loch and as we rode along the countryside was intermittently hidden by trees, but then we would turn a bend in the road and there it would be in all its glory. We finally found a pullover on the loch side of the road and took a stroll along the northwestern shore of the loch. FYI, Scotland is very relaxed as it relates to camping. There were tents in all kinds of places along our journey. As our trip progressed, we would see many tents and caravans (campers/motorhomes) along almost every road we traveled. And you cannot blame these folks for roughing or glamping it. The entire country is a postcard.

At our pullover, we enjoyed serene early-morning waters set against rising hills and clear skies. There were ducks, and a gentleman fly fishing along the shore. Even though it was July, the air was crisp and clean, like a Fall morning on the East Coast of the U.S.

Summer Morning on Loch Lomond	Narrow-leafed Willow Herb
Flora Along the Path

The first scheduled stop on our itinerary was Kilmartin Glen. This prehistoric site sits in the middle of a pasture, filled with content, grazing sheep. The parking area is across the street from the glen. The glen itself is accessed via a footbridge that crosses a trickling burn (stream).

Of the over 300 sites in the Kilmartin Valley, over 150 of them are prehistoric. Kilmartin Glen holds one of the most important concentrations of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in Scotland.

Once walking over the lively burn, we entered the glen, dogging sheep poo, to arrive at the standing stones. The X-shaped monument of 5 stones is believed to have been raised by bronze-aged farmers around 1500 B.C.E. Remarkably, the stones mark where the moon rises and sets at its key 18.5-year cycle and also mark alignment with the sun.

Walking further along the glen, we reached a substantial burial cairn. Although we did not visit all the other sites in the vicinity of the town of Kilmartin, this glen was a delight and was our first taste of ancient Scotland.

After enjoying the glen and stepping in sheep poo, I was glad I wore my waterproof hiking boots. With the inevitable moisture of Scotland, you will need to add that item to your packing list.

Kilmartin Glen	Interior of the Burial Cairn
Size of the Cairn	From the Top of the Cairn
Prehistoric Stones Up Close
Stones on Kilmartin Glen	Keeping an Eye on Us
Flora of Scotland	Stone fence at Car Park
Small Burn (Stream) Beside the Glen	Happy Sheep
Standing Stones	Closer Look at the Stone

We were disappointed to discover that Inveraray Castle, the ancestral home of Clan Campbell, was closed on this weekday. The castle holds many authentic weapons in its armory that were used at the Battle of Culloden.

All too soon, we arrived in Oban, also known as the “Gateway to the Isles.” This small postcard town and harbor boasts delicious, fresh seafood, a distillery, and large ferries that move folks from the mainland to many of the Hebrides, bother inner and outer isles.

Daniel and I rented a two-bedroom apartment via Airbnb while in Oban. It was well-appointed and within walking distance of the harbor and town center. As always, the citizens of Scotland were very friendly and helpful. As Daniel was paying to park in the parking lot across the street from the apartment, a local told Dan that if he were to pay for his parking, and then push the “red” button, her would get his money back. I can neither confirm nor deny if he was correct.

After settling into the apartment, we walked to the local market and bought some groceries. Daniel prepared us a great steak and we enjoyed it with a salad.

Regarding food, European Union countries have very strict food quality regulations. For example, in Italy, nitrates are not added to wine. Daniel was appalled to find (after reading the ingredients) that ketchup in Scotland has 4 ingredients (tomatoes, vinegar, salt, and sugar). Yep, that’s it. He and marveled at the tenderness of our five-dollar Aldi steaks. Aldi stores, being a German-based company, were everywhere in Scotland.

After dinner, we settled into our evening routine. The next day we were going to Dunollie Castle grounds to join the clan gathering.

Scotland Day 2-Update (Mysterious Arch)

Thanks to the generous feedback on the MacDougall Clan FB group, I now know about that mysterious arch. It is a no-longer-used drive for Rossdhe House, an 18th-century estate, which was built to replace the Colquhoun clan’s 15th-century medieval castle. The original castle ruins are behind the newer clan home. This 600-acre estate sits on a peninsula on the shores of Loch Lomond. In 1994, it became a private golf club and spa. See photos on the link above. Thank you, Clan MacDougall! You always come through.

Scotland 2024--Day 3

This new morning in Scotland would be the crux of why we planned this trip. We were going to visit Dunollie Castle and the MacDougall Clan International Gathering being held there. Due to time constraints, we could not attend the many activities planned by the staff over the week during the gathering, which was frustrating. We knew we would enjoy our time in Oban, nevertheless.

We drove to the harbor and found a great spot for breakfast. The Corryvreckan had great offerings. Dan and I both ordered the Scottish Breakfast, which included fried egg, bacon (much like American ham), link sausage, black pudding, baked beans (yes, like American baked beans), a potato scone, and toast.

FYI, Black pudding is a type of blood sausage originating in the UK, including Ireland. It is made from pork blood (or occasionally beef), with pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal, usually oatmeal, oat groats, or barley groats. A potato scone reminds me of my mom’s left-over mashed potatoes she would use the morning after cooking them. By adding egg and a bit of flour, she would pan-fry them into a single-serve patty for our breakfast. The ones we had in Scotland appeared to be mass-produced and shaped and were drier than my mom’s\

I passed on the black pudding. No offense, Scotland, but not my thing. As an aside, I did come to love haggis during our visit.

After breakfast, we wandered into McCaig’s Warehouse, a well-appointed gift shop situated on the harbor near the working fishing docks of Oban. The salesperson who helped us with our purchases was friendly and showed us a special display of all things MacDougall. They also had an impressive scotch selection.

We then headed the short drive from the harbor to Dunollie Castle grounds. Quite a few attendees were already waiting near the gate to the car park, so we all waited to get parked until the staff could prepare for a busy day of MacDougall folk dripping by the grounds.

We had preregistered and were given a lovely gift bag when signing in. It included a fabric shopping bag with the clan gathering logo printed on it. Inside was a journal with the same log on the cover, a metal water bottle with the logo, a lapel pin, a program of activities, and a jar of blueberry jam made by the staff for attendees. By the way, it was delicious, and I enjoyed it many mornings after returning home on my homemade English muffin bread.

Our first stop was the 1745 House, which was the laird’s house after the ruined castle was abandoned for habitation. Currently, the Dunollie Preservation Trust maintains the grounds and its holdings. Dunolie Castle has an amazing draper’s shop (online, too) and a gift shop on the grounds and adjacent to the 1745 House. I have several woolen articles of clothing made by this shop and am awaiting another scarf in the Lorn tweed that is back-ordered.

Loving history, I could have spent hours in the museum in the 1745 House. I love textiles and enjoyed the many examples on display, including blackwork linens that were used as bed curtains. I also enjoyed seeing the Broach of Lorn up close. This famous Broach was once worn by Robert the Bruce but now resides as part of the MacDougall collection.\

The nurse in me was also thrilled to see a “cousin’s” connection to Joseph Lister and his studies in microbiology and infection control. Seeing actual surgery notes and slides studying malaria was a special treat. FYI, List6er was the first to apply Louis Pasteur’s germ theory to surgery to prevent infection.

Pier and sailboat in OBan	1800's Microscope and Malaria Slides
Dunollie 1745 House	Ancient MacDougall Tartan
Brooch of Lorn	Blackwork Curtains
Surgical Notes	Giant Sequoia
Perspective

After touring the museum, we made our way through the garden area of the grounds. A huge sequoia tree became a spot to capture a photograph of Dan standing at its base.

Next, we wound our way uphill to the “tower.” This ancient site was originally built on this promontory with views of the harbor and the Isle of Kerrera before the 8th century. It was burned down and rebuilt three times before 801 C.E. During the 12th century, it was part of the Kingdom of the Isles, ruled by Somerled, King of the Isles (and my 23rd great-grandfather). During our visit, a painting class was busy capturing the magnificent view of the harbor on canvas

In the tower photos below, you will see bars at what seems to be the 2nd floor. Originally, the opening was not barred but was the landing for stairs into the tower. Restoration and work on the tower is ongoing.

After enjoying time at the tower, we returned to the grounds below, not wanting to leave, but with limited time, we had no choice. We drove into town and parked next to the Oban War and Peace Museum.

This small museum it may be small in square footage, but it is anything but small. It boasts an impressive collection of war and maritime artifacts, including scale models of naval/maritime vessels, uniforms, medals, and photographs from various conflicts and eras. Over time, Oban Harbor has hosted crews from the UK, United States, and Australian forces. The museum is free, but a collection box for donations rests on the host’s desk.

After checking out other shops, we made our way back to our BNB apartment. The next day would be a long one. We would be taking a Caledonian Ferry to Iona, Staffa, and Mull, three of the Inner Hebrides.

View from Inside Tower	Art Class at Work
Dunnollie Tower Castle	Base of Tower
Describe your image
View of the Bay	Celtic Cross
View from Inside Tower	Arch Seen Inside Tower
Daniel Taking a Break

Scotland 2024--Day 4

On our fourth day in Scotland we required an early start. We were taking a ferry to Iona, Staffa, and Mull, three of the Inner Hebrides. We needed to be at the ferry terminal by 0900, so we rose early, dressed, and grabbed some coffee and a quick bite to eat in the apartment.

Caledonian operates multiple ferries in the UK. You can take multiple-isle tours from Oban, as we did, or take shorter excursions to -specific isles. The large ferry transports all kinds of vehicles and has a fully operational cafeteria, gift shop, and enclosed lounge. It’s also dog friendly, with dog-watering stations aboard.

After gathering in the boarding lounge, it was soon time to board the vessel. Because the weather was beautiful, Dan and I settled on the top deck at the stern. It did not disappoint! We had a panoramic view of Oban Harbor as we departed, including Dunollie Castle, as we made our way toward the Ilse of Mull. I must tell you; after having lived on a sailboat in years past, it was heaven being aboard a boat once more. The fresh sea air and being on the water just do something for the soul. BTW, if you plan to visit the Hebrides via ferry during summer (peak season) be sure and book your excursion well in advance, as these fill up quickly.

Ferry from OBan
Cafe Area on Ferry
Leaving Oban Harbor
Dunollie Castle in the Distance
Outdoor Deck Seating

Our first stop was the Isle of Mull. Following Skye, Mull is the second largest island of the Inner Hebrides. Mountainous at its core, Mull has a coastline of over 300 miles. Inhabited since the end of the last Ice Age, it began to be invaded in the 6th century and those peoples established the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata.

After the Scottish Reformation, the McLean Clan, which held Mull, became supporters of Protestantism. King Charles II, upset by these factions’ civil disobedience, ordered Archibald Campbell, 9th Earl of Argyll, (and my 8th great-grandfather) to suppress the disobedience to the Crown. Despite being opposed to this way of thinking, Archibald complied, and eventually, the Campbell Clan succeeded in seizing Mull and taking control of Duart Castle.

After a glorious 45-minute trip, we disembarked the ferry and were transferred to double-decker buses for the trip across Mull. Unfortunately, the pictures we took left a lot to be desired, due to reflections on the window glass. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful ride. Like postcards, we passed through charming coastal villages and passed under the shadows of majestic peaks. And as in everywhere in Scotland—sheep, lots and lots of sheep!

Mull Coastline	Mist on the Mountains of Mull

When we arrived at our transfer location, we were boarded onto a smaller vessel to head for Staffa.

Staffa is a small, uninhabited, island. Its wildlife population is dominated by seabirds. A large colony of puffins breed on Staffa every summer and are always a favorite with visitors who can sit near them on the cliffs, watching them dive into the water and return with a fish. The breeding season between early May and the start of August is the best time to see them and also when the birds have their distinctive colorful beaks.

Geologically composed of basalt columns, Staffa’s unique appearance is further enhanced by a wondrous cave that allows the sea to ebb and flow into it. The original Gaelic name for Fingal's Cave is An Uamh Bhin – "the melodious cave" This is inspired by the sounds emanated by the sea flowing in and out of the cave and the echoes it produces.

Mendelssohn, so inspired by this isle, composed the Hebrides Overture (Fingal’s Cave). The origin of the name ‘Fingal’s Cave’ is ascribed to Finn MacCumhaill, also known as Fingal. He is believed to have been an Irish general and has been compared to a kind of Celtic King Arthur.

Making our way toward Staff, the captain hovered our vessel near the mouth of Fingal’s Cave. It’s an impressive site. He then guided us toward the landing area composed of natural basalt slabs. The steps up to the plateau of Staffa have been carved from the basalt columns there. It was a rather steep climb for me, but I made it, thanks to great handrails. However, my legs were shaking and just didn’t think I could make the trek across to see the puffins.

Fortunately, other than one young lady, the passengers I spoke to did not see puffins anyway, as they had begun to leave Saffa. I was/am disappointed. Seeing the puffins was one of the top things I wanted to experience in Scotland. (I guess that will require a return to Scotland at some point.)

Daniel made the trek around to go into Fingal’s Cave, while I waited with some other older adults. Then, we boarded the vessel for our last leg of our three-isle tour—Iona.

Approaching Staffa	Basalt Formations
Inside Fingal's Cave	Clownish Little Puffin

Iona is noted as being the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland. In 563, Columba, an Irish abbot and missionary, arrived on Iona and established an abbey there. The original Book of Kells was created there. However, as Viking raiders worsened, killing many Christians, the monks eventually abandoned Iona, taking the Book of Kells back to Ireland. A copy of the book is now housed in the abbey museum on Iona, while the original is housed at Trinity College Library in Dublin, Ireland.

We departed the landing in the quaint harbor dotted with small fishing boats at anchor. Because we were both famished, got in line at the busy lone restaurant there and enjoyed fresh fish and chips. We then walked up the hill toward the ruins of the nunnery. My legs were still shaky after Staffa, so I did not make the trek to the Abbey.

Again, I was disappointed, as Archibald Campbell (one of my ancestors), is buried there in the abbey’s graveyard. That, and not seeing the puffins, were two of the several regrets during our trip. However, when traveling, I think a flexible attitude is important. Weather, closings, illness, delays, etc., can greatly impact travel, so it helps to “go with the flow.”

I lingered at the nunnery ruins, while Daniel walked to the abbey. Despite missing the abbey, I did enjoy exploring the nunnery ruins. The walls of the ruins, dotted with pink granite, which is indigenous to the area, made for some great photographs. It was beautiful weather and was peaceful and quiet in the ruins, providing a nice change of pace from our busy day.

Upon Daniel’s return to the harbor area, he enjoyed a “pint” at the small pub, while I explored the gift shop. The tartan of Iona is lovely, inspired by the sea’s jewel tones. I constrained my urges and did not buy anything, but truly enjoyed exploring and admiring the many textiles on display. If you love woolens and textiles, you will be in heaven if you visit Scotland.

Too soon, we were leaving Iona, and headed back to Oban on the Caledonian ferry. It had been a busy day, and I was tired. We took a seat in the lounge area, enjoyed a hot coffee, and watched the isles disappear as we headed for the mainland. Tomorrow we would be headed for the magical Isle of Skye!

Iona Harbor	Crab/Lobs6ter Traps
Iona Harbor	Nunnery Ruins
Pink Granite of Iona Region	View Through an Arch in Nunnery Ruins
Ancient Graves at Nunnery	Glass Window in Nunnery Ruins
Cross in Stonework at Nunnery	Nunnery Ruins
Remaining Nunnery Walls	Nunnery Ruins 2
Abbey Ruins	View From Nunnery Gate to Harbor Area